Lighting For Digital - Dave Montizambert


  

Tuesday 21st May 2013  

More articles by Dave Montizambert
My clients are always making crazy requests, especially since digital. They frequently ask for summer fashion catalogues with outdoor themes shot in the dead of winter in the Northern Hemisphere, and they always pick the rainiest or snowiest days to shoot on. I touched on this with my article 'Lighting for Digital Part 9' back in the April/May 2009 issue of this magazine; it demonstrated how to create a sunlit look on a cloudy day in Hawaii using only one speedlight and a reflector panel. This simulated sunlight technique is great but doesn’t work very well if you have wind-driven torrents of rain or a howling snow storm (such as in Hammersmith, England this past January at the Convention 2010). In cases like this you can use the same lighting technique indoors, but unless the shoot has a decent budget, realistic looking backgrounds will be out of the question leaving you with fake looking ones.


Model posing with ocean backgroundThis is where Photoshop shines, you can delete the original backdrop then drop in the perfect background after the fact. Easy, or so everyone thinks, but the reality is, a seamless job is quite time consuming and therefore expensive for the client. Cutting around flesh and most garments is easy and can be somewhat automated, the real challenge is hair, cutting around it is a very tedious time consuming task because of its size and its translucent quality. Simply put, the background will partially show through any given strand of hair and will be viewed as a contaminant once a different coloured/ toned background scene is added. To make things even more challenging, a strand of hair’s smooth surface creates a very efficient reflecting surface which picks up original background colour and tone. Strands of hair are also very thin, the edge pixels of these strands can mush together with the original background when imaged if the lens and/or imaging sensor’s resolving power is not adequate; this looks perfectly fine and natural against the original background but does not against a new background. After being frustrated with these challenges, I found a wonderful fast solution using blending modes to blend the hair into a new background which works beautifully most of the time if you light the edges of the hair correctly and carefully choose an appropriate background for the original shot. An appropriate background can only be determined once you know what the final background tone around the subject’s hair will be.

Let’s take a look at one of my Hair Knock Out recipes by applying it to an image I shot using my simulated sunlight lighting technique (see sidebar entitled Indoor simulated sunlight set-up) on model Christiane www.ulorinvex.com  during a masterclass at the Societies' 2010 Convention, see Image 003 & 004.

Disclaimer: this Fast Blend Mode Knockout technique works really well if the replacement background is either dark in tone, or light in tone, mid-tones can be tricky.

Model posing with low-light bay backgroundIndoor simulated sunlight setup
Whilst planning the image for my lecture demo, I chose a couple of outdoor background scenes from Hawaii that I thought would work nicely, see Image 001 & 002. In both instances, Christiane’s hair would fall against a dark area of the Hawaiian land/seascapes and so a black backdrop was selected to shoot her against for the lighting demo, see Image 003. Also for a realistic looking background match up, make sure to light the subject from same direction as sunlight direction in background scene. With this in mind, Christiane was illuminated by light reflecting off a 1.3 x 2m, white nylon fabric stretched over a panel frame placed in front of her on the camera left side of the image frame – see lighting diagram Image 004. A shutter speed of 1/125 was selected to overpower the room lights and the aperture was set to f 8 to correctly expose Christiane with the aforementioned panel main light source. The origin of the light energy for this main light source came from a studio strobe placed behind her on the camera-left side of the image frame. This light origin also provides heavy, dramatic back-lighting for Chris giving her separation from the dark background. Reflective meter readings were taken off the black backdrop to make sure that any light spilling onto the background was minimized through light origin placement, goboing, and feathering, to ensure a minus 4 1/3 stop reflective reading. To fill in the subject shadows, a second reflector panel was placed on the camera-right side of Christiane, as shown in Image 004. This fill light source caught stray light from the backlight origin and redirected it onto her dark side. An incident meter reading showed that the fill panel reflected 2 stops less light onto Christiane than did the main light panel.


 

 

 

 

Here's my Fast Blend Mode Knockout recipe for dark background scenes:
• Open the subject image.
• Double click background layer and rename it to make it a true layer.
• Open the background scene image.
• Drag the background scene image into the subject image file; hold down the shift key as you click and drag the background layer from background scene into the open window of the subject image file.
• Drag the background subject scene layer to the bottom of the layer stack so that is sits underneath the subject layer.
• Select the subject layer and then duplicate it, Layer > Duplicate Layer > Okay (keystroke short cut – Ctrl J).
• Hide this new layer’s visibility by clicking on its visibility eyeball icon.
• Select the middle layer (the original subject layer).
• Near the top of the Layer palette switch the layer blend mode from its default setting of 'Normal' to 'Lighten,' – in some instances 'Screen' may work better.
• Select the top subject layer and turn its visibility back on.
• Create a Hide All (Black) Layer Mask – Layer > Layer Mask > Hide All for this top layer.
• From the tool palette select the brush tool.
• Near the bottom of the tool palette set foreground colour to white then paint over image where subject is ghosted (where the background shows through), make sure that the layer mask thumbnail on the subject layer is selected before you start painting.
• If you make a mistake painting on the layer mask, select black as the foreground colour and paint over this area to correct it.
• If the rest of the body is hidden or partially hidden, you can paint white over the layer mask to reveal it, or instead of painting, create selections using colour range, or the pen or lasso tool and then fill these


Model posing in studioIn conclusion there were three elements that made the above background swap successful:
1) selecting a background as dark or darker than the final background,
2) lighting Christiane so that there was good separation from the dark background,
3) using lighten blend mode to meld the two images.



  

lighting example

 

 

 

 

  

 

Lighten blend mode blends layers by favouring the lighter pixels, that’s what made this blend so easy; the edges of her hair, due to the rim lighting, are lighter than the background, and so they dominate. Imagine a pixel on a layer that is lighter than the pixel directly underneath it, Photoshop will display the top pixel and not the lower pixel. If a pixel on the bottom layer is lighter than the pixel directly above it, the bottom pixel will be displayed and the top pixel not. When using the Lighten blend mode think LIGHTER PIXELS RULE and when opting for a 'canned' background scene, plan your shot – a few minutes of planning can save you hours of post-production work in Photoshop.

 

Dave Montizambert

Join today and receive a fantastic free gift: Apply here

 

   

Society of Fashion and Glamour Photographers, 6 Bath St, Rhyl, LL18 3EB
Tel  01745 356935
International code (44)
info@swpp.co.uk
Copyright © 2006 SWPP. All rights reserved. - 23/11/2008 12:26:35

Valid HTML 4.0 Transitional Valid CSS! gbdir